Smith And Wesson Model Serial Number Lookup

The members here are extremely helpful to people trying to identify guns. However, many people do not post the data we need to help you, and we wind up playing 20 Questions for hours. If you will take just a few minutes to read below and then post the data we need, you will sometimes see guns fully identified in 10 minutes or less! If you post at 4 am Eastern time, you might have to wait 2 or 3 hours for the morning crew to show up, but there's a good chance a west coast night owl will catch it for you. Help us help YOU! Start your own thread.

• Smith And Wesson Model 29
• Smith And Wesson Model 29 For Sale

Do Not tack your question onto an existing thread. That only causes a confusing jumble of answers about different guns. Remember- A picture is worth a thousand words! Instructions: Easy and fast! Or Let's Go- First, if the cylinder swings out to the side, check behind the yoke for a MODEL NUMBER. If your gun does have a Model Number, post your questions in the subforums for the later models located here: or Model number, serial number, finish, caliber, and barrel length are usually all you will need to post for information on a Model numbered gun.

Yoke The part the cylinder swings on is called the Yoke: Useful data may or may NOT be behind the yoke! Model Numbers began in 1957-58. So first, look for a Model Number: IF there is a DASH Number, give us the complete model number!

This is a Model 67-1 If there is NO Model number behind the yoke, there is probably NOTHING we need from back there! The assembly number which does NOT match the serial number on the butt is USELESS to us. DON'T even tell us what it is. We DON'T want to know! This assembly number of 36000 on this gun is only there to keep the frame and yoke together during manufacture.

Note it is on both parts: One notable exception is a Reg Number found on Registered Magnums. If your gun has that, TELL Us!

////////////////////////// No Model Number? Proceed to Steps 1 through 5 below. Items 1 through 5 below are absolutely essential for identifying your gun. GIVE US all five of those. The data after 1-5 are not usually required for a basic ID of your gun. TYPE First, we need to know what TYPE S&W you have: Tip-Up So called because the barrel 'tips up' for loading. ALL Tip-Ups should be posted here: Top-Break Obviously because the frame opens, or 'breaks' on the top.

Tell us whether or not your gun has a VISIBLE Hammer. If you care, it is NOT called a Break-Top, Breakover, or Breakdown. Note that this type ejected the spent shells automatically when opened, which relates to the name of the next type. ALL Top-Breaks should be posted here: Hand Ejector So called because the cartridges must be 'ejected by hand' instead of happening automatically as in the earlier Top-Breaks. If your cylinder swings out to the left, you are holding a Hand Ejector. My personal description for more than 30 years: 'The finest machine ever devised by man for slinging a bullet with one hand.'

Feel free to disagree. This is America, and you have the right to be wrong. ALL Hand Ejectors without Model Numbers should be posted here: 2. Serial Number After we know what TYPE you have, we need a serial number! See the S on the gun below? That IS part of the serial number! We need any letters that are with the serial number!

We DON'T need the actual number if it bothers you to post it. Post the number below as S 880XXX We DO need the EXACT number of digits. The one TRUE place you can be sure of reading the serial number is the BUTT of the gun: A few S&W models have the Serial Number on the front gripstrap which faces the trigger guard because the grips covered the bottom of the butt: Every S&W revolver had the serial number in one of those places! CTG or Caliber CTG is an abbreviation for 'Cartridge'. It is NOT the Model of your gun. GIVE us the caliber, but 44 Special or 38 S&W or 38 Special or whatever it is will suffice: 4.

Barrel Length The barrel begins immediately in front of the cylinder, so Barrel Length is measured like this: 5. Download renee undeleter com serial numbers. Sights Fixed Sights or Adjustable?

Fixed Sights are a simple notch for the rear sight: Top Break Fixed: Hand Ejector Fixed: Adjustable Sights will have screws on the rear sight which allow adjustment: Top Break Adjustable: Hand Ejector Pre-War Adjustable: Hand Ejector Post-War Adjustable: ////////////////////////// STOP Here and Read: Items 1-5 above are all we usually need to tell you what you have. The rest of the data below is not usually required for identifying a gun unless it is an unusual or special order gun. The members here will quickly let you know if they need more data. Strain Screw On small frame guns, it is often helpful to know if there is a Strain Screw in the front gripstrap: Butt Swivel Also called Lanyard Loop, Lanyard Ring, and Lanyard Swivel.

Lanyard Ring How Many Screws? We will usually know, but you might want to tell us how many screws: 5 Screw: 4th Screw is in front of trigger guard: 4 Screw: Upper sideplate screw was dropped around 1955-56: 3 Screw: Trigger guard screw was dropped around 1961: NOTE that some types of grips often cover Screw #1, and sometimes Screw #2 also: NOTE also that many small frame guns NEVER had the Trigger Guard Screw even though they have the large upper sideplate screw. Just tell us what you see.

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Huntingguy, that sounds good. Do you have the number you called?

I have mine and my uncles mod 36. I know when I bought mine and I have a vague idea of when my uncle bought his. He's dead now so I can't ask. How did you find the number if you don't still have it? If all else fails I will join and seek the info on the S&W site above.I think I just called S&W customer service.

Smith And Wesson Model 29

By Telephone: 1-800-331-0852 (USA) Mon-Fri 8:00AM-8:00PM Eastern Time The number is from the link above. I am pretty sure that is the one I called. I had an early J frame I wanted to convert to a 32HR so I called. It is possible I got in contact with the custom shop. (No they wouldn't convert it.).

I did some gun trading today and I traded for a Smith&Wesson old school model 66 (stainless, 4' tube, K-frame,.357 magnum)with the hammer mounted firing pin. The gun is in amazingly good shape, and has seen limited use. It's marked model 66-l (66 and a simple vertical line. I don't know if the vertical line is a lower case 'L', an upper case 'I' or a numeral '1'. It has a serrated trigger, the old school cylinder catch, oversize Goncalo Alvez grips, and the chambers are countersunk (which is cooler than the frozen level of hell!). Can anyone tell me when it was made?

Smith And Wesson Model 29 For Sale

P.S.: It also has a pinned barrel if that helps. Click to expand. Hello Ballbearing Not to Tinkle on your Corn Flake's here, but they made a Boat Load of Model 66's. They are the son of the Famous carbon steel K-Frame Model 19 that came in blued or nickel finish.

S&W makes the best.357 Magnum revolver out there, and why wouldn't they as they were the first to offer the.357 Magnum Caliber way back in 1935 in the larger N-Frame configuration. Now here is one you don't come across every day it is a First Year 1935 Registered Magnum one of only 720 Built the very first year and it shipped on December 13,1935 I suppose as a Christmas Present. Douglas Wesson who was then the Vice President of S&W Gambled on creating these Thourobred hand gun's after coming out of a Major depression as they got off to a Slow start with only 720 of them being made the first year of 1935, and understandably so as they sold for a Price of $61.00 back then and were the most expensive had gun that S&W offered.

These gun's were a custom order customer built hand gun back then you could have gotten any barrel length from 3-1/2' which mine is, to a barrel length of 8-3/4' offered in 1/4' Increment's. They offered these in Blued or Nickel with various stock's and sights. Mine is shown wearing the new Then, Magna style stock's and has the Patridge sight blade, as it was made before the Baughman quick draw sight blade was born, which we saw later on in 1937 When Famed FBI Agent Frank Baughman requested S&W to make a sight blade of his own design of which he provided a mechanical drawing of. They made these Registered Magnum's from 1935-1938 time span and when you got one from S&W they sent a Registration form for the new owner to fill out and return to the factory. Once the factory got the filled out Owner Registration form they sent the new owner a Registration certificate with his name and address on it, along with the gun's serial number, Barrel length and what ammo was used to sight it in and at what distance specified by the customer.

This was S&W's way of making your Purchase a Personal one and it also offered a Life time service warranty on the gun. By 1938 The order's for these gun's were pouring in at an alarming rate so S&W ceased the Registration process and stopped stamping the gun's frame are with REG. Numbers.For Larger Pictures, click on the gun Pictures below.Hammerdown. Hello Ballbearing Not to Tinkle on your Corn Flake's here, but they made a Boat Load of Model 66's. They are the son of the Famous carbon steel K-Frame Model 19 that came in blued or nickel finish. S&W makes the best.357 Magnum revolver out there, and why wouldn't they as they were the first to offer the.357 Magnum Caliber way back in 1935 in the larger N-Frame configuration.

Now here is one you don't come across every day it is a First Year 1935 Registered Magnum one of only 720 Built the very first year and it shipped on December 13,1935 I suppose as a Christmas Present. Douglas Wesson who was then the Vice President of S&W Gambled on creating these Thourobred hand gun's after coming out of a Major depression as they got off to a Slow start with only 720 of them being made the first year of 1935, and understandably so as they sold for a Price of $61.00 back then and were the most expensive had gun that S&W offered. These gun's were a custom order customer built hand gun back then you could have gotten any barrel length from 3-1/2' which mine is, to a barrel length of 8-3/4' offered in 1/4' Increment's. They offered these in Blued or Nickel with various stock's and sights. Mine is shown wearing the new Then, Magna style stock's and has the Patridge sight blade, as it was made before the Baughman quick draw sight blade was born, which we saw later on in 1937 When Famed FBI Agent Frank Baughman requested S&W to make a sight blade of his own design of which he provided a mechanical drawing of. They made these Registered Magnum's from 1935-1938 time span and when you got one from S&W they sent a Registration form for the new owner to fill out and return to the factory.

Once the factory got the filled out Owner Registration form they sent the new owner a Registration certificate with his name and address on it, along with the gun's serial number, Barrel length and what ammo was used to sight it in and at what distance specified by the customer. This was S&W's way of making your Purchase a Personal one and it also offered a Life time service warranty on the gun. By 1938 The order's for these gun's were pouring in at an alarming rate so S&W ceased the Registration process and stopped stamping the gun's frame are with REG.

Numbers.For Larger Pictures, click on the gun Pictures below.Hammerdown. Click to expand. That is a god-awfully beautiful N-frame! I was kidding about the gun being rare (hence the smilies), I knew it wasn't, or the guy at the gun shop would have had it priced a lot higher than he did. You don't see N-frames for sale very often, not even the mass produced, CNC machine wonders that Smith&Wesson puts out these days, it's rare to see an old one in any kind of shape, and when you do, it's always way out of your price range. I was lucky to get the K-frame that I did.

I only hope I can take care of mine as well as you have taken care of yours.