SERIAL NUMBERS OFTEN ALLOW YOU TO DETERMINE YEAR OF MANUFACTURE Knowing the year your vintage firearm was made makes it easier to decide which gun catalog we sell will give you the best information about the company, models made and more. To help you determine the year made, find your serial number and then select a link from those below to sites that offer serial dates.
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The offers serial numbers for the following makers: AYA, Boss & Co., Ltd, Browning, EJ Churchill, Colt, Colt Black Powder 2nd Gen, John Dickson & Son, AH Fox, German early Date Codes, German Modern Date Codes, Stephen Grant, WW Greener, Harrington & Richardson, High Standard, Holland & Holland, Italian Year of Mfg. Date Codes, Ithaca Gun Co., Charles Lancaster, Joseph Lang, Marlin Firearms, Mauser Broomhandles, Parker Brothers Shotguns, Piotti, James Purdey, Remington Date Code & SxS Shotguns, Savage/Stevens, LC Smith, Smith & Wesson, Spanish Year of Mfg. Date Codes, Sturm, Ruger & Co., Winchester Rifles, Winchester Rifle & Shotgun 1969+, Winchester Shotguns.
My father-in-law gave me a 32 cal six shot S&W revolver and need help identifying year and model as I need a part for it. Its a 32 cal lg six shot with a 2 inch barrel it has 5 serial numbers on the barrel and in front of the trigger 55278 no letters it has some moose antler with a 66 on the frame and a eagle stamp on barrel with the letter N under the eagle and it was made by Gerstenber U.
Eberwein in Gussenstadt Germany so the gun says.The gun loads/unloads from the right side thru a swig out lever the cylinder is fixed and does not open or swing out in any way, your HELP would be appreciated. For more information on managing or withdrawing consents and how we handle data, visit our Privacy Policy at: Show Details Necessary HubPages Device ID This is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons. Login This is necessary to sign in to the HubPages Service. Google Recaptcha This is used to prevent bots and spam.
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Pre-1899 Firearms FAQ PO Box 2068 Ormond Beach, FL 32175 (386) 677-7314 Pre-1899 Firearms FAQ by James Rawles, Clearwater Trading Company Revised April 30, 2004 In response to numerous requests, here are the answers to the questions that I most commonly get on pre-1899 firearms. The second half of this FAQ posting lists serial number cut-offs for the 1899 threshold for many gun makers. Q: What constitutes 'antique' under U.S. A: Although your State and local laws may vary, any firearm with a receiver actually made before Jan. 1, 1899 is legally 'antique.' And not considered a 'firearm' under Federal law. This refers to the actual date of manufacture of the receiver/frame, not just model year or patent date marked.
(For example, only low serial number Winchester Model 1894 lever actions are actually antique.) No FFL is required to buy or sell antiques across state lines- they are in the same legal category as a muzzle-loading replica. I regularly ship them right to people's doorstep via UPS, with no 'paper trail.'
Think of it as the last bastion of gun ownership privacy. Q: I saw a post that said that pre-1899s are considered modern “firearms” if they are chambered to fire ammunition that is available off-the-shelf. Is this correct? That is absolutely incorrect. ANY gun manufactured before Jan. 1, 1899 (other than a machinegun or other NFA category, such as a short-barreled gun) is NOT controlled in any way by Federal law.
There is NO Federal requirement for sales of these guns to be handled by Federally licensed dealers. They may be freely bought and sold across State lines by private parties, regardless of what cartridge they are chambered in. (However, State or local laws vary.) Q: Does sporterizing or re-chambering an antique end its exemption? A: Sporterizing, re-barreling, or re-chambering an antique gun does not effect its legal status. Thus, I can legally sell folks Mauser sporters that have been converted to modern cartridges (like.308 Winchester!), without having to go through the 'FFL to FFL' hassle. Q: Would an antique serial number range gun be worth more than an otherwise identical gun made just a few years later? A: Pre-1899 production guns now bring a 20 to 60% premium over identical condition guns made AFTER 1898.
Based on market trends, I expect that premium to increase considerably in the next few years. Many of my customers are commenting that they previously had no interest in 'antique' guns, but now want one or more because they are paranoid about additional gun laws. For the time being at least, pre-1899 are completely EXEMPT from all federal laws. Presumably, this would also mean that they would be exempt from registration if they ever have nationwide gun registration. Think about the possibilities. Q: But what if I find a pre-1899 gun at a gun shop that was mistakenly logged into the dealer's 'bound book' of post-1899 firearms? Won’t I have to fill out a Form 4473 (yellow form)?
All the dealer has to do is log the gun out as: 'Inadvertent entry. Pre-1899 manufactured receiver. No FFL required.' (If the dealer gives you any grief and insists on the yellow form, a call to any ATF branch office will confirm this.) Q: Will the prices of pre-1899s continue to go up? A: Yes, and the rate of increase is likely to accelerate!
30, 1998 the permanent Brady rules went into effect. On that date all post-1899 gun sales-long guns and handguns-came under the federal control of 'national instant background checks.' Subsequently there has been a much bigger interest in guns that are Federally exempt and that can be bought via relatively anonymous mail order! Q: Are pre-1899s included in the Brady II background check law? They are exempt.
Q: How does the law on pre-1899 antiques and replicas actually read? A: From the Gun Control Act of 1968 (Which modified Title 18, U.S. Code): 18 USC 921 (a)(16). (A) any firearm (including any firearm with a matchlock, flintlock, percussion cap, or similar type of ignition system) manufactured in or before 1898; or (B) any replica of any firearm described in subparagraph (A) if such replica - (i) is not designed or redesigned for using rimfire or conventional centerfire fixed ammunition, or (ii) uses rimfire or conventional centerfire fixed ammunition which is no longer manufactured in the United States and which is not readily available in the ordinary channels of commercial trade. Q: What are the primary advantages in investing in pre-1899 guns rather than modern (post-1898) guns, or replicas?
A: They are not considered 'firearms' under Federal law. Thus they will most likely be exempt from any new Federal gun registration law. (Sadly, registration looks inevitable within a few years unless there is a massive swing of the pendulum back toward a constitutional republic.) I can literally send you a pre-1899 handgun or rifle right to your doorstep without a lick of paperwork. (Unless your live in for example New Jersey, New York City or D.C.) It is a great loophole.
31, 1898 cut-off date has been in existence, (unchanged), since 1968. Thus the pool of available pre-1899s continues to shrink with each passing year, and because of it they A.) Look more and more antique/obsolete to lawmakers-i.e. Not worth bothering about. And B.) Grow more valuable with every passing year. Pre-1899 guns are already bring a considerable premium. People are willing to pay more for privacy.
So the bottom line is that with pre-1899s you are buying both privacy (the lack of a 'paper trail' and probable exemption from future registration) plus a great investment. Why buy a replica (such as the Trapdoor Springfield, Winchester, and Schofield top break revolver replicas currently on the market-and requiring the Federal 'Yellow' Form 4473), when you can buy the real thing (with far greater long term investment value, and NO paperwork) for just a little bit more money? Q: Do you have a list of 'cut-off' serial numbers for determining if my gun is an antique? A: The following is a listing that combines information that I have compiled over the years, plus some information that was kindly provided by Jim Supica, proprietor of The Old Town Station.
(OldTownSta@aol.com), Dixie Gun Works, Dennis Kroh, and Ben Sansing. Here is a partial list of pre-1899 'cut-off' serial numbers: Ballard rifles, all are pre-1899 Beesley (Frederick Beesley, England) shotguns - serial numbers below 1500 Boss & Co. Shotguns - serial numbers below 4200 Churchill (E.J.
Serial Number Lookup Warranty
Churchill, Ltd., England) shotguns - serial numbers below 959 Colt 1878 & 1883 Shotguns, all are pre-1899 Colt-Berdan, Colt-Burgess, and Colt-Franklin, all are pre-1899 Colt Lightning Rifles, all large frame are pre-1899; Medium frame: serial numbers below 84,000; Small frame: serial numbers below 35,334 Colt Percussion Revolvers (and cartridge conversions), all are pre-1899 Colt Spur trigger revolvers, all are pre-1899 Colt 1st and 2nd Model Derringers, all are pre-1899 Colt Single Action Army (SAA) and Bisely revolvers with serial numbers under 182,000. I consider SAAs with serials between 165,000 and 182,000 (1896 to 1898 production) the most desirable, since they have steel frames (and are thus safe to shoot modern smokeless loads), yet they are Federally exempt. Colt Model 1878 Double Action Frontier revolvers (serial numbers below 38,200) Colt M1889 Navy.38, all are pre-1899 Colt New Police.32 (serial numbers below 7,300) Colt New Pocket Model (ser. # below 11,900) Colt 'New Army' or 'New Navy'.38 and.41 (ser. # below 115,000) Colt Model 1877 (Lightning and Thunderer).38 and.41 (ser.
# below 111,500) Colt Model 1878 ('Frontier') D.A. # below 41,000) Colt New Service, first year of production (1898) only. # below 250) (I found one for my own collection. It only took ten years to track one down.) Dickson (John Dickson, Edinburgh, Scotland) shotguns - serial numbers below 5000 Forehand and Wadsworth.32 or.38 (all made before 1891.) Fox (A.H. Fox) shotguns - all are modern Francotte (Auguste Francotte & Co.) shotguns - Best grade: serial # below 16310 Medium grade: serial # below 29614 Bottom grade: serial # below 305769 Grant (Stephen Grant & Sons, London) shotguns - serial # below 7050 Greener sidelock shotguns (Best grade: serial # below 5311) Greener boxlock shotguns (serial # below 47130) Holland & Holland shotguns: Best grade: serial # below 22000, Paradox guns: serial # below 15400 Hopkins and Allen Mfg.
Changed its name to Hopkins and Allen Arms in 1898. Ithaca Baker Model shotguns - all are pre-1899 Ithaca Crass Model shotguns (serial # below 38399) Ithaca Hammer shotguns - other - (serial # below 33011) Ithaca Hammerless shotguns - other - (serial # below 32988) Iver Johnson top break revolvers. Special thanks to Ben Sansing ( swsansing@juno.com ) for the following Iver Johnson information: There were three main models of Iver Johnson 'Safety' topbreak revolvers.
Free Serial Number Lookup For Guns
1st & 2nd Model revolvers were built for black powder cartridges only. Continued use of higher pressure smokeless in these revolvers will result in them shooting loose, getting out of time, and parts breakage. Editor’s note: So if you want to shoot smokeless in a pre-1899 IJ revolvers, you must handload cartridges to match the lower black powder pressure. Use extreme caution and err on the side of lower pressure when working up a load. The 3rd Model was especially beefed-up, redesigned, and 'fortified' for use with smokeless powder and is fine for modern factory ammo. Alas, only 1st (all) & 2nd (some) Model revolvers fall into the legal Antique category.
1st Model (1894-1896): SINGLE-POST top latch; leaf springs; cylinder 'free-wheeling' when at rest 2nd Model (1897-1908): DOUBLE-POST top latch; leaf springs; cylinder 'free-wheeling' when at rest 3rd Model (1909-1941): DOUBLE-POST top latch; COIL springs; cylinder locked when at rest If you've determined, from the above characteristics, that you have a 2nd Model IJ revolver, here's how to determine whether it was made before 1899 (and thus a legal antique) or not. Fortunately, Iver Johnson built revolvers by the 'batch' system, and only changed & upgraded their guns once a year, so it is quite easy to determine whether an IJ is antique or not, just by cursory examination. In only.one. case (.32 small frame.hammer.
model) does the serial number need to be checked. In other cases, you can 'tell at a glance' once you know what to look for.
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Navy Arms Catalog
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To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Come on over and join in on the Trade at. VS are restricted to listing their ads to the S&S section or their VS sections. Ads listed in discussion areas are prohibited. Is this a good gun for cowboy action?
The one I am looking at has a low serial number and may have been made in the 1970's. Will it hold 10 rounds? ThanksI do not own an 1866, but shoot CAS on a regular basis. Just from my observations of other shooters, I have seen a lot of problems with the 1866 from any manufacturer. They seem to be prone to misfeeds and jams on a regular basis.
This seems to be very common out of the box and even with short stroke kits or gunsmiths working over the actions the problems seem to continue. Most of these rifles I have seen have been manufactured in the last 5 years or so. Maybe the older ones are more reliable; but I would advise using some caution. If possible I would shot the rifle a couple of times first before I bought it. Most of the shooters in my club have settled on either a Marlin 1894 or a Win 1892 for their long gun.
